The ordinary link of such a bracelet consists of a whole number of complete "turns" or convolutions so that the free ends or tails of the wire or strip forming the helix can engage the ends of a plain captive hinge pin and render it captive, either by being soldered to its ends when it is substantially the same length as the axial length of the helix or by being bent mutually inwards so as to enter the ends of the tunnel when the pin is shorter. The flattened helices of a cross-weave or polynese chain link bracelet are thus all orientated in the same attitude, viz: the free ends or tails of the wire or strip forming each helix are directed in the same sense lengthwise of the bracelet prior to their soldering or deformation to render the respective hinge pins captive. Each flattened convolution of a helix has 180.degree. arcs at each end which intercalate with the exposed end arcs of the next links in the bracelet, except for the link at each end of a bracelet. Each of the latter intercalates with only one link, its exposed end arcs being attached to a clasp, or a watch case, or whatever article is carried by the bracelet.
Shortening or lengthening of bracelets of the chain link type has always required technical skill and dexterity in that shortening has involved cutting a link to free it from the pin which connects it with the adjacent link; and lengthening has involved the meshing of the exposed end convolutions of the final link of the existing bracelet with those of a new link and locking them together by inserting and rendering captive a new hinge pin.